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SpainBarcelona




We have become increasingly casual about our travel plans, not that we were ever more than a few days ahead, but now we are only minutes ahead or sometimes behind. I think the Eurail Pass has given us a new, higher level of flexibility without worrying about the expense factor. The passes were paid for back in January, now allowing us to hop on and off short and long-distance trains at will over the next 3 months. The trains in Spain are a bit more complicated, they are crowded and reservations are highly recommended if you want a seat during your journey. From Avignon, France we make a reservation but our train is very late, so we jump on the first train that comes through going to our next destination and connection to Barcelona. The train is full because other people had the same idea. I sat on the floor in a first class car and Scooter went to the bar car for a stool. He was tired of watching me fuss over not having a seat. After an hour or so I was totally uncomfortable and joined Scooter in the bar car to sample some Spanish wine, play travel trivia on the laptop, and listen to all the American tourists try to order food and drinks. We had not heard this much American English since leaving home. We found out that Iberian Airlines was offering a $289 round-trip airline ticket from Chicago to Madrid, Spain. The Americans had landed by the plane load and they were everywhere. After three hours in the bar car we decided our lungs needed a break from all the smokers so we headed back to the car with our luggage and met Michael from California, an entertaining solo traveler. Michael is a meeting planner in the medical sales industry and has decided to take a little break from work and travel through Europe. We stood in the space between train cars and laughed at each other's travel misadventures. It was refreshing to meet a fellow traveler who could appreciate a good travel screw up.



The Talgo train pulled into the Sants Station in Barcelona about 8 PM. We asked Michael to join us for the 'find lodging' ritual and dinner. I made a few phone calls but at this late hour all the recommended hotels were full or as they say in Spain, completo. Three of us went to the hotel reservations booth at the train station and were surrounded by other Americans without reservations. I was glad to see so many spontaneous travelers, most were over 55 years old, a big difference than traveling during the summer months when the average age is 20. We told the office our price range and after paying a small fee and deposit we were referred to the Hotel Oasis in Barceloneta near the harbor. While we were waiting our turn in line we witnessed our first theft attempt--a man was also in line asking questions and scoping out potential victims, when the next gentleman got to the front of the line a began conversing with the office staff, the thief casually picked up the other man's luggage a started to walk away but got caught. The thief quickly and ridiculously switched into being the victim acting like someone stole his luggage that must have looked just like the bag he grabbed. He went on like that until he walked out of sight. This was a sign to be extra careful. Map in hand, Scooter quickly figured out the Metro system, we purchased a strip of 10 tickets for the subway but the tricky part was using them and getting our luggage through the turnstiles. We looked like a comedy show to the two guards looking on and trying their best to assist us. Once we found the Hotel Oasis, it was a dark ominous looking old building, Michael is probably wondering why he decided to join us, you would think that we could get something a bit better for 60$. The fat smelly guy wearing the tank top had our booking and gave us keys to two rooms on a top floor. Dark and dingy but clean and reasonable. Freshen up and then let's hit the city. It was Saturday night at 10:30, perfect timing for Spain's late nights. We walked the waterfront to Ramblas, the main drag. There were an incredible crowds of people strolling up this huge boulevard. Eventually, we turned right into a large square filled with busy cafe style restaurants. We took a table right in front so we could watch the parade of strange people. Michael made us laugh and entertained us all through our slowly delivered meal. They say paella takes an extra long time to prepare.

After dinner we walked up Ramblas, which was even more crowded at midnight. Back on the harbor hundreds of dancers overflowed from a dozen nightclubs--the boardwalk was rock'in. Seeing something I wanted, I ducked into a tropical style bar serving Mojitos, a cocktail that I was familiar with from South Beach in Miami. It was expensive but so good; crushed ice, pile of fresh mint leaves, sugar and rum--no wonder people were dancing in the streets. Unlike at home, all ages of people were mixing and mingling, the older generation in Spain are not at home after eating the 'early bird special'. You could see grandparents and grand kids dancing in the street and it was after midnight. We had to work on getting onto Spanish time ASAP because at 1 AM we were tired just when everyone else was getting started.



Had a fairly good night's sleep, there is nothing like the security of pushing a chair under the door handle. Ready to get up and take in some sights before catching an afternoon train to Madrid. Michael would join us today for our grand tour of Barcelona's top two sights: Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia and the Picasso Museum. First to the train station to lock our bags up and make reservations to Madrid. We navigated the Metro to our next stop. Coming out of the Sagrada Familia subway station is shocking, seeing this fantasy church looming over you. It is definitely a sight and will be spectacular when it is completed although maybe not in our lifetime. The foundation stone was laid in 1882. The designer, Antoni Gaudi, a devout Christian worked on this creation for 40 years, seeing the first bell tower of the nativity facade crowned by the cross in 1925. Tragically, he was hit by a streetcar and died in 1926. He left a general plan and profound studies of the new structure and the geometric forms inspired by nature. 12 vaults of more than 100 meters rise vertically representing the apostles. The place is like no other building in the world. It is under major construction because it was never finished. You are allowed to walk around and climb the numerous towers. I am not sure if I am going to be able to get Scooter to leave. Everywhere you look Antoni Gaudi has placed a statue or a carving that invites you to stay. If Salvador Dali had to design a church it would look like Sagrada Familia. Scooter can't wait for the building to be finished so we can return for the opening church service. The church is being funded by private donations, when and if it is completed it will be Europe's largest cathedral. It will be worth a return trip!

Sightseeing destination numero dos was the Picasso Museum containing one of the world's best collections of the world's most prolific artists. Picasso spent many years in Barcelona and I can easily see why he liked it. The three of us really enjoyed the museum once we figured out how to enter! The Picasso Museum is located in Picasso's former residence. This is a great way to see his work because his sister saved everything he ever drew starting when he was a small boy. The entire life and artistic development of Picasso is on display. Picasso became famous for his odd and controversial drawings but it looked like he could master any art form. His last few years were spent drawing naked women with an emphasis on the child bearing equipment of the female anatomy. You would think at 70+ years old he would have other things on his mind. We had used up our time in Barcelona and left just enough time to get back to the Sants Station for our 7 hour ride to Madrid. We really enjoyed our 24 hours of Michael's company and Barcelona. The train to Madrid is full and somehow we got assigned the worst two seats on the train. They have four seats grouped together which means you sit facing two other people and your feet are touching theirs. This wouldn't be a problem if it was family or friends but to sit and stare at strangers for seven hours sucks. I must be doing something wrong because the last couple of train rides have not been a lot of fun. This is a lesson learned when making your reservation, avoid those two seats. Scooter is trying to get us moved because I am freaking out but the train is full and we have no place to go but the smoke filled bar car. The Spaniards love to smoke!






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This page last changed on 19-Apr-2006 22:15:15 EDT by 70.171.24.221.




Downtown Barcelona
The harbor with plenty of boats
Even a wooden submarine
Sailing anyone
Temple Expiatori de la Sagrada Familia
If this church was finished it would be a world wonder
Everywhere you look was a work of art
I hope it is completed in my lifetime so I can attend service
in the most amazing church in the world
No boring gargoyles here, fruit sits on top
Massive ceilings under construction
Karen takes a picture
When it was started in the 1920
The Fruit on top for color
Strange building in the horizon
A tower for each apostle twelve in all
No stain glass yet
A little help from a turtle
The building structure was designed and tested using an inverted structure with strings and sandbags
Karen and Michael at the train station