SouthAfricaSafari

We arrived in Johannesburg, South Africa at 10:00 AM via Air France from Paris. The flight is continuing on to Cape Town but everyone has to get off the plane and go through customs. The American Embassies in Sudan and Nairobi had just been bombed the day before and South Africa was seeming a bit scary. The lines through customs were long which was supposedly normal but it took us over an hour to go through customs. I think a lot of people missed connecting flights to elsewhere in South Africa. We are not sure how the attacks on the US Embassies are going to effect us but it didn't matter because we were in Johannesburg which in itself has a very dangerous reputation. After picking up our bags we had to figure out a place to stay. We had no guidebook because my sisters and their husbands would be here tomorrow and I was relying on their travel planning. We would return tomorrow to meet them and then we all had a reservation at the airport Holiday Inn. After everyone arrived we would take another flight to Hoedspruit for the beginning of our African Safari. We walked out into the crowds at baggage claim and were approached by a nice guy from New Zealand wanting to know if we needed a place to stay. He was from the Eastgate Backpackers Hostel and he had a nice brochure. It was only ten minutes from the airport near a big mall and the largest flea market in South Africa. The mall option got us and we signed up.



Scooter asked a couple of questions and it was cheap enough so we ventured out into the parking lot for an awaiting bus. Did I say bus, we were escorted to an extremely old and dented car that would be our transport. It turns out that the last thing you want in Johannesburg is a new looking car because that only increases your odds of a car jacking. The drive from the airport found us in a major city with modern highways and was nothing like we had expected. The place was modern with Holiday Inns on every corner. The hostel was actually a large house in an upscale neighborhood that had seen better days. The guys rented it from the owner who has since left South Africa and now it looks like a Fraternity house. It was run down with stuff everywhere. Nobody's mom was living here. Our host, Craig, was full of charm and took us around to see our accommodations, it was 11:00 AM and he was upset because he had run out of beer this morning. We could go with the traditional hostel bunk option or we could splurge for a room to ourselves. We took the splurge for 80 Rand a night which worked out to be about $12. After locking up our stuff we decided to head to the mall for money, a movie and food. It was surprising to end up in a mall, which for all appearances had been transported from the United States. I know we should have been out experiencing the local culture but in Johannesburg that involves muggings, crime and car jacking. We would be happy to spend the day in the mall.

Every country you go to has crime problems and tourists are always warned to be careful. Scooter started asking the locals how bad it really was and for the first time in our travels we saw that the locals were very scared. This combined with the razor wire on every fence line convinced us that Johannesburg was having a little trouble. According to a couple of people we talked to, the only time you have a problem is at night or a car jacking. If you are driving a nice car you stand a very good chance of being followed to your home and then attacked. The immigrants from neighboring countries appear to be causing all the problems and the police are powerless to stop it. It is almost considered a modern day form of Robin Hood that the rich are too rich and it is OK to take their car and redistribute the proceeds to the poor. It really boils down to the established white South African Community who for years lived a comfortable and prosperous life under Apartheid are no longer in charge. In 1994 Apartheid ended and South Africa has its share of growing pains ahead. Apartheid was the policy of the white minority that everything was separate and not equal. The black African was treated as property with no rights and very little freedom. The World community placed restrictions on trade and commerce with South Africa until the policy of Apartheid was finally overturned in 1994. So today, South Africa is having a little problem trying to figure out who is in charge and is not quite sure who should make up for the injustices of the past.

We started looking at things to do in South Africa and it did not take long for us to decide that South Africa had more to offer than a Safari and a drive along the coast. Our trip went from two weeks to two months. It doesn't hurt that the US dollar is at a all time high against the Rand. South Africa is a beautiful place and well worth the visit.

My sister's Kris and Kim and their husbands Ed and Keith are arriving today for the start of their two week vacation. It was going to be fun but Scooter and I are a little concerned that we are not in adequate party shape. They are arriving today at 4:00 PM so we walked to McDonalds, Flea Market and an Internet Cafe. Our real delay tactic was killing time until noon when we could check into the Airport Holiday Inn. Johannesburg's reputation was bad enough that my sisters did not want to venture any farther than the safety of the airport. The Holiday Inn would fit my needs perfectly because taking a shower in the fraternity house was not going to happen. I spent an hour in our clean Holiday Inn bathroom. The time had arrived and after five months I would get to see my sisters. The six of us had heaps of fun ahead of us.

The airport hookup was a complete success and the travelers from Florida, look like they needed a nap because the party started early on the plane and did not finish until the airplane bar ran dry. The 14 hour plane ride sounded like fun and the open bar did not hurt the excitement. Kris had a napkin with tons of South African recommendations from the locals on the plane. We looked into going out that night but we never left the comforts of the Holiday Inn. The boys were tired and couldn't hang at the bar, so the three sisters stayed up later than they should talking and drinking wine. It was good to see everyone again.

Today we have an 11:00 AM flight to Hoedspruit, the starting point of our four day safari at Honeyguide. Did I mention that I stayed up too late drinking wine the night before. I am slow moving and it was a little tough taking care of business at the airport. The airport has everything you need, so after checking in we ate lunch and picked up supplies. South Africa has a very nonstandard electrical plug and we needed an adapter for the girl's hair dryer. I can't believe I am out looking for an electrical thing, that is usually Scooter's department. In case I didn't mention it I was not feeling very well and I was not looking forward to a plane flight. The flight was uneventful and we found ourselves at the cutest airport at Hoedspruit. It is a military base/safari airport for tourists who fly to the private game reserves. I would like to find the interior decorator who handled the design of the airport and have them design my house. So far South Africa was much nicer than we expected. Matt and Donovan from Honey Guide Tented Safari were waiting for us at the airport.

Picking a Safari camp is not an easy task and it is certainly not cheap. Kris and I spent a full day trying to pick a Safari camp using our guide books and the Internet. Honey Guide was the winner offering a small camp with deluxe camping accommodations and it bordered Kruger National Park. We loaded up our bags into open air specially converted Land Rover jeep that comfortably seat 10 and set out for a thirty minute drive to camp. I still was feeling a little green so I asked for a window seat just in case. I was hoping for a quick recovery. The weather was perfect and we were all excited about our next four days.

We selected Honey Guide camp for several reasons, first because it's borders were open to Kruger National Park. Secondly, it offered east African style tented accommodations with a maximum of 24 guests and lastly, they seemed to offer good value for the money. Our daily rate included three delicious meals, refreshments, two game drives and walking trails. The big negative about Kruger National Park is that the number of people can sometimes outnumber the animals. This is another reason we selected a private game reserve. Our adventure began shortly after departing the airport. On the way to the camp we spotted warthogs, giraffes, cape buffalo, and elephants--incredible, we knew we were in for an authentic adventure.

We checked in at the camp's meeting area, a large thatched open-air building that houses a sitting room, bar, restaurant, and the boma. By this time, we had just a few minutes to follow our luggage to our luxury tents and wash up for lunch. The tented accommodation was exactly what we were hoping for-large tents on raised decks with a big front porch. Through the tent flaps in the back was a walled in yet open bathroom-perfect-a safari feel without sacrificing any comfort.

The drum sounded calling the whole camp to lunch. There were about 20 of us seated at communal tables eating a well prepared healthy buffet lunch. Lunch is served promptly at 3 PM and the dusk safari departs at 4 PM and lasts until about 8 PM. Donovan was assigned to be our guide for the next 3 days and he took good care of our crew. Our first evening viewing produced a selection of cape buffalo, impala, kudu, elephants, zebra, giraffe, bushbuck, wildebeest, Ginny-T the lioness, and various smaller species like the bushbaby and civet. We were very impressed with both our sightings and the knowledge of our guide. Sundowners (happy hour) with appetizers is also part of the program. It does get very chilly after the sun sets and I was happy to have brought my gloves and jacket along with the heavy wool blankets supplied by the camp.

Our safari was originally scheduled for early June but had to be pushed back to August when Ed broke his leg in two places in a boating mishap. Either month would be winter in the southern hemisphere, which is supposed to provide good wildlife viewing because water holes are fewer and the vegetation is sparse. We thought it might be cold but the weather was mild-we could wear shorts during the day and jeans and a sweater at night, just right for a fire in the boma. Dinner is served at 9 PM around a long table with a fire burning in an open air thatch-walled structure, a boma. The food is delicious, there is a choice of entree - something normal like fish, beef or lamb and then something out of the ordinary like kudu or impala. Simone is the camp caterer, she organizes all the meals and welcomes the guests to the evening meal. Our guide, Donovan, also joins us for each meal, he is excellent company, full of unbelievable animal and people tales.



Tonight we met Ann and John, the camp's managers, they seem to run a tight ship. After dinner everyone gathers around the fire for a chat. It is an easy place to make new friends. At night we are not allowed to walk unaccompanied to our tents, we must ask a guide with a lantern for an escort. We all turned in around 11 PM and to our surprise got the best treat of the day -- hot water bottles covered in flannel in our beds ... nice touch.

The action starts early in the jungle. We are up at 6 AM with the drum roll wake up call followed by refreshments delivered to your tent and at 6:30 it is time to be on your vehicle. The morning is nippy but we are dressed for it and excited to be on our way. Donovan told us that the lioness, Ginny-T, that we had seen on last night's game drive actually walked right through camp shortly after we had all been tucked in. We knew we were very close to nature. Off we went for our morning drive -- rhinos, elephants, giraffes, birds and many antelope later we stopped for a coffee/tea break. Upon returning to camp at 10 AM breakfast is served -- very hot very fresh. After breakfast we requested a short hike, Donovan and his rifle took us for an informative flora and fauna walk. Donovan clearly has a passion for his work.

"The big five", this term quickly becomes part of your vocabulary on a game reserve. The term refers to the 5 most dangerous animals for man to hunt. If you choose to hunt the big five odds are the hunter could get killed before the hunted. Seeing 'the big five' while you are on safari seems to be a major goal. Lion, leopard, cape buffalo, rhino, and elephant make up the list. This evening's game drive completed our 'big 5' sightings -- lions yesterday, elephants and cape buffalo everyday, rhino this morning and finally the elusive leopard tonight with the added bonus of 2 leopard cubs. We also saw hippos, zebras, crocs, monkeys, and antelopes at a large watering hole. What an awesome night -- the stars/milky way are more vivid than we have ever seen. We spot loads of falling stars, orbiting satellites and the southern cross constellation. Back to camp for dinner and a wild night around the campfire. The leopard sighting with the two cubs was an event to celebrate which meant it was time to party around the campfire.

The beer and wine flowed until the butt shots started and the sambuca made an appearance. For those unfamiliar with the term 'butt shot', they are brandy snifters filled with sambuca, lit on fire, and then extinguished by placing the glass on your bare butt cheek of choice. The glass is then adhered to your rear until you are ready to shoot it. To complete the picture you have to drop your pants so this usually provides great viewing of bare butts. We had a group shot with about 7 simultaneous participants -- no names please. Another side show was watching Scooter go off the deep end. He kept informing us that he was 6 months to 1 year ahead of the rest of us when Ed asked him why he was burning leaves in the campfire one by one off a large branch. He was definitely out of party shape because I have never seen him that incoherent. The night went on in a festive fashion -- it was good fun for everyone and we really enjoyed getting to know the Honey Guide staff better. Kris and Keith were the last ones to call it a night -- and then it happened.................

There was a kill right in the middle of camp -- outside tent 5. It seems that Ginny-T, a lioness with 2 cubs killed a waterbuck antelope just after everyone went to their tents. The family in tent 5 watch the entire thing happen ten feet from their bathroom. There is never a dull moment at Honey Guide. The following morning the carcass had to be moved from camp so Donovan Keith and Ed were lucky enough to load up the mauled carcass into the truck They dropped it off in a clearing on the edge of camp. Ginny-T, Jabu, Scratch, and the cubs were not finished feeding yet and the carcass being in the middle of camp presented a logistics problem for both man and animal. How would you like to wake up to the housekeeper saying "be careful, lions in the camp this morning"! They moved the carcass to an open area away from camp to allow the lions to feed un-bothered while the maintenance crew tided up camp -- blood, guts and stuff.

Everyone had a really good view of he lions except Scooter and I who made the mistake of sleeping in. Fortunately, the game viewing did not move far from camp until a couple hours later when we joined up. Never ever miss a game drive. Compared to the lions, I think the rest of the morning was anti-climatic. But Donovan was his ever chipper self pointing out birds and plants then really getting our attention by tasting some fresh elephant dung and explaining how to determine its sex. No thanks! After the drive and a large breakfast everyone ran for their tents to grab some zzzzzzs.

This evening's drive was epic .....the big 5 in 1 drive. Philip is our tracker/spotter, he sits on a padded chair attached to the front of the truck and looks for wildlife, which Donovan then drives us to, gives information and patiently answers our questions. Philip and Donovan outdid themselves tonight. First, we came across the lioness, Chip and her 3 cubs. Donovan explains that the animals have grown accustomed to the Safari truck because it has never caused any problems or competition for food. The fact that it is filled with 10 humans makes no difference because the lion only sees it as a big green animal which smells different every time it shows up. He also reminds us again not to standup because then the lion will figure out that a human is on board and could attack. She nor her cubs are afraid of the truck or the constant electronic sounds of our cameras. We followed them slowly through the bush until they decided to take a snooze. We were so close we were a bit anxious, but this is what we all wanted. Another reminder about the very important rule, do not stand up in the truck because it draws attention to yourself as an individual/food rather than being part one big unit/truck.

ELEPHANTS

A few minutes later in total darkness, I mean pitch black, Philip thinks he sees a rhino. He must have some sort of sixth sense because no one else saw it. Sure enough, moments later a rhino walks out of the thick bush for a beverage.

RHINO

We finish our cocktails and drive over the dark paths with Philip expertly handling the spotlight. Not too far down the road are a small grouping of cape buffalo just hanging out as they do.

CAPE BUFFALO

I don't think any of us was actually thinking 'big 5' because leopards are just not seen that often and we already considered ourselves fortunate with last night's sighting. But our luck continued and another leopard crossed the road and slowly walked into the bush right in front of us -- amazing.

LEOPARD

Donovan mentioned that this was only his 3rd or 4th time to see THE BIG 5 IN 1 DRIVE. Back at camp we were excited but it is tough to get too excited in the event that other guests did not have an equally thrilling drive -- we try to be sensitive. Happy hour starts and continues through dinner. We must compliment Ann and John on their wine selections and Simone on her menu selection -- we were never disappointed. Once again, just after everyone turned in there were two loud frightening lion roars -- right there very near. I think Kim was ready to blow her emergency whistle. Later that night, about 2 AM, I woke to a distinct munching sound, I peeked outside over the bathroom wall to see a giraffe, so close I could have touched it, just enjoying a late supper.

"Hey Guys", as Donovan often says, this morning is our final game drive. It would be difficult to imagine topping what we had already seen but we set out to try. The main event of the day started with an unbelievable spotting by Philip. We had been searching for rhinos for an hour when we gave up and stopped for our tea time. As we stood around soaking in the scenery, Philip says "there are the rhino", everyone looks, no one sees anything, look again using binoculars, still nothing. Philip is trying to convince Donovan that he spotted not one but two Rhinos. Philip is adamant and finally we can make out two black dots on the horizon. Philip was not using binoculars and Donovan is very impressed. We were amazed. We pack up and drive toward the black dots. Park the truck and begin walking toward the rhinos, a mother and baby. The wind is in our favor so we are able to get really close. Rhinos have an excellent sense of smell but very limited eyesight. All of us quietly follow Philip, Donovan and the rifle in single file stopping behind a small shrub to observe. The rhinos walk toward a group of three cape buffalo and when they get right up next to them they decide to all take a lie down together. This seemed odd but maybe explained because the buffalo have keen eyesight and the rhinos a sharp sense of smell so together they are more protected from predators. Anyway, it is quite a special sight to see these wild animals interact with each other. We all congratulate Philip on his long-distance sighting.


After breakfast it is time to pack up our stuff and head to the airport. We could have easily stayed a couple more days but the rest of South Africa was waiting for us. The Honey Guide Safari was a first class operation filled with first class people. It is one big happy family in the African bush and we felt privileged that the animals welcomed us with such hospitality. Honey Guide is in the process of setting up their web site and plan on providing constant updates and photos on how the Honey Guide family is doing. We can't wait to return and see how the lioness Chip and lioness Ginny-T are doing with their new cubs.