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With a brilliant Safari under our belt it was time to head for the famed Garden Route along the southern coast of South Africa. The guidebooks all stated the Garden Route is spectacular and each time we told a local our next destination their eyes lit up with joy. We are on a fast pace and opted to fly from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth where we would pick up our rental van and begin our drive to Cape Town. We flew into Port Elizabeth or P.E. because it is a transportation hub and only 45 minutes from our first stop of Jeffery's Bay(J-Bay). J-Bay is world renown for its great surf and our resident surfer Ed could not wait to get there. We had pre-booked a Hertz Rental van that turned out to be within a few inches of being big enough for six and luggage. However, the name Ventura painted on the side in pastel colors was all we needed to pile in and get started. That, and the fact that the next size up was twice the price. The Ventura would be our ride along the coast of South Africa. While at the Honeyguide Safari Camp we met a couple who spent a week in J-Bay and they highly recommended a condo on the beach called Diaz-15. They said it was the nicest place on the beach and reasonably priced. We gave the owners a call from the airport and with a reservation confirmed we set out driving south on the wrong side of the road. It is funny how the simple act of driving on the left hand side of the road can play tricks on your sense of direction. Our first turn onto the N2, the major interstate along the coast, had us going in the wrong direction. Ed, who swears he was a compass in a previous life, had us turned around and heading in the proper direction. We had a short 45 minute drive and we were all looking forward to food and a little refreshment. I am sure the only reason to come to J-Bay is to surf. That was our reason. Ed, the surfer, knew that J-Bay's supertubes is the best wave in South Africa and some of the best in the world. We arrived into J-Bay around 9:00 PM and found a sleepy coastal town with not a lot going on. We had an address for Diaz-15 and made a quick pass through town trying to find it. We missed our turn off and made a short 10 minute drive from one end of the town to the other. We found ourselves in a small neighborhood and figured it was time to turn around when we saw a guy hanging out on the side of the road with a large brick in his hand. It had all the appearances that he was waiting to smash in a car window as it drove by. Our suspicions were confirmed when we spotted another gentleman wearing a hood standing on the other side of the road, trying not to be noticed. We made a quick trip out of there; decided we should head for food and ask directions. It was late and we did not have to many options so we stopped in at the Red Creek Spur Steak house. We walked in and little did we know we had entered the Twilight Zone. The Red Creek is a chain in South Africa and is comparable to Denny's. Our waiter, Lurch, greeted us in an unknown form of the English language and seemed very happy to see us. The Red Creek's specialty seemed to be sauces that you could purchase separately to put on your food. The menu was quite large and our waiter seemed very eager to take our drink order. It became apparent that recreational drugs were probably popular in J-Bay because we were not quite sure if our waiter who was standing in front of us was actually there. He returned shortly with our drinks and we asked him if he knew where Diaz-15 was in town. We gave him the street address and he spent fifteen minutes trying to figure out what side of the road we were on. The town of J-Bay does not have more than 10 streets in it and this guy had lived here his entire life. We had him stumped and he left to ask the cook if he knew were it was. He returned shortly to inform us nobody knew where it was. It didn't matter we were starved and wanted to place our order. We all ordered something different and asked for a variety of special sauces. Our space cadet waiter took our order without writing anything down, committing it all to memory. We couldn't wait to see what would actually arrive. To our waiter's credit our orders arrived without error. This guy had found his calling but I wonder if he gets lost on the way home. Ed gave the Diaz-15 folks a call for better directions and a short two minute drive later we were unloading our stuff. The Diaz-15 was located on the beach and was more than we expected. Our large, modern and spacious three bedroom condo that cost 350 Rand or $55 a night and it was the nicest place Karen and I had stayed in the last seven months. http://www.diaz15.co.za It didn't take long before all of us were asleep. The next morning Ed was up early "checking it" and today there was no surf. In the light we could get a better view of things from our oceanfront balcony. Our balcony view includeda huge white sandy beach with a few rocky points and tons of freshly arrived shells. Karen was quite upset to see so many people out there picking up the best shells. Tomorrow she would be the first one on the beach for prime shelling. The backyard was a carefully tended garden complete with a full size trampoline. Six very hungry people headed out the door for breakfast at the San Francisco Cafe, home of the one free refill. It turns out in South Africa you do not get free refills on your coffee. The owner was from Chicago but had not lived in the United States for over 25 years. He explained to us how J-Bay was growing up fast and how the Cafe business was becoming very competitive. Thus the marketing ploy of "One Free Refill." Good food and great prices plus the one free refill. We all sat around the table amazed at what we had just eaten and the fact it cost about $2 a person! The strength of the US dollar was going to make this vacation a lot of fun. I decided to hang out in the condo and the rest of the crew went to "Check-it." Kim informed us that a large part of surfing involves "Checking It." Before "Checking it" everyone headed to the numerous surf shops to get some gear. Ed was looking for a used surf board and the rest were purchasing J-Bay T-shirts as fast as possible. Kim even managed to find a very large pot that she had to have. Of course we did not have any extra room in the back of the Ventura but the pot would be joining us for a ride for the next 10 days. We felt like Japanese tourists buying everything in sight. Kris was actually beginning to hyperventilate with the stress of T-shirt selection; the choice of sizes and colors can really get to you. No used boards to be had, but Ed had actually ordered a new board from home and we went to the industrial side of town to pick it up. New board loaded up with the new pot and we were on our way to "Check-It" at St. Francis Bay just west of J-Bay. The drive took us through beautiful countryside ranches and over some flats of a long inland bay. St. Francis is a quaint little town, that is nearly closed down because it is off-season. The seashore is a rugged point being pounded by huge breaking waves stirred up by gale force winds. We stop for a photo shoot on the wild coast. Around the corner is a large quite bay -- we "Checked-it" and there were no surf-quality waves. Back to Jeffery's, time to feed again and stop at the Drank Winkel. In Africanas, a hybrid of the Dutch language, Winkel means store and Drank means liquor. Ed managed to find a wave or two and the girls went for a long walk along the beach hunting for shells. We were all eager to go out tonight for a nice dinner at the Breakers and a little bar action. This is a surf town and we expected to find a couple of good bars. The locals recommended Rick's and Grand Prix as the best spots in town. It turns out they are the only spots in town. Karen and I took the opportunity to introduce everyone to our new favorite drink Red Bull and Vodka. We first came across Red Bull in Thailand but we did not know what it was because the bottle was written in Thai. Everyone seemed to be consuming it at a frenzied pace. In Greece they actually had a bar called Red Bull that specialized in Red Bull drinks. We are not sure what is in it but the second ingredient on the list is Energy. The end effect is you get buzzed from the Vodka and energized by "The Bull"--just ask Kim. The thought of going home at 2:00 AM after a night on the bull is depressing. Kim was the party girl and she gave the big thumbs up to Red Bull. Ed left us early that night so he could get ready for a big day of surfing tomorrow. Over the last couple of weeks, the surf at J-Bay has been not very good. Karen and Ed got up at the crack of dawn for shell collecting and surfing. They both killed it. Karen came back with a superb collection of shells that made the sleeping sisters a little jealous upon inspection of the ocean treasures. You have to get up early if you want the best shells. Ed was having an epic day surfing the tubes of J-Bay. We piled out for breakfast at the Sunflower Cafe and the mood of the table was a little bit of a hang over. After the standard hangover cure of Coke and a little food we were all ready to pick up Ed and head for the Garden Route. J-Bay is actually not on the Garden Route so currently this was an Ed stop and did not count for the girls who had a detailed itinerary for taking part in land-based mother nature activities. Supertubes was filled with surfers and the local hounds running around playing in the sand. The hounds are Staffordshire Terriers and they pack a lot of energy and muscle into a short but well-built frame. The plan for the Ed pickup was to honk the horn and wave. It was a little difficult to pick Ed out of the surf lineup because everyone was wearing black wet suits with a hood. Ed's dilemma of course was the last wave had to be the best ride of the day. Kim let Ed know when he made his way to the beach that he had exceeded his playtime and should have been home an hour ago. On the road toward Tsitsikamma National Park and the official start of the Garden Route. Tsitsikamma is 80 km of rocky coastline, the Storms River Mouth Gorge and of course, lots of flora and fauna. Both sides of the road are covered with blooming yellow and purple flowers set against the backdrop of a pristine forest. We happened to be in just the right season for the flower bloom which is in August, the southern hemisphere spring. The Garden Route has a forested coastline, dunes, beaches, lagoons and a very temperate climate. We highly recommend visiting in the off-season because the crowds are quite heavy during the southern hemisphere summer. If you like nature you will not be disappointed with the Garden Route. We pulled into Tsitsikamma National Park and were met with huge crashing waves on the rocky shoreline. The facilities at the National Park are superb and it would be a perfect place to camp for a couple of days. They have cabins, lodges and green grass camping sites next to the ocean. We only had an hour, so we set off for a short walk to the Storms River Mouth Gorge. The gorge has a suspension bridge that allows you to venture out over the meeting of the Atlantic Ocean and the Storms River. They have black water rafting trips down the Storms River but something about sharks swimming up the river to eat crocodiles makes it seem, well, not that interesting. The trails to the suspension bridge are on wooden walkways and takes about an hour roundtrip to complete. There is a lot to do in this area but we are on a tight schedule and our next stop is Plettenburg Bay for the all important lunch feeding. Plettenburg Bay is worth a peek but very quite during the off season. We make our way down to the ocean looking for a restaurant with a view. We find a rustic little place overlooking the sandy white beaches and the mountains in the horizon. South Africa is quickly becoming one of our favorite countries. It is a little chilly outside, so Karen and Kim order up Gluwein-hot spicy red wine that warms them right up. With nourishment a plenty our next stop is Knysna, a town that came highly recommended from people we had met on our travels. Knysna is a combination summer resort and an industrial town -- timber, shipbuilding and oysters. The town is built on a huge lagoon that opens into the ocean between two sandstone cliffs known as "The Heads." We booked at the Knysna River Club and rolled in around 6:30 PM. The chalets are actually log cabin style lodges. We picked a two bedroom, with a pull out couch in the living room. Unfortunately, it is cold both outside and inside the chalet with no fireplace. Karen and I went to bed at 8:30 and the rest of the crew hit the town running looking for a little action. It is off-season and not much is happening, but they did find their way to the Tin Roof Blues establishment that is a smaller knockoff of the Blues Cafe in the US. Today is going to be an adrenaline day because we are heading to the Bloukrans bridge for a little bungy jumping. Did I say little; I actually meant to say the world's highest bungy jump at 216 meters or around 650 feet. For those not good with distances, imagine jumping out a window from the 65th floor. The bridge itself is the tallest in the southern hemisphere and the third highest in the world. We had to backtrack an hour because yesterday when we drove by the wind was too strong and the bungi operation shutdown early. Ed and I were the only brave souls that planned on making a leap of faith.
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