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SouthAfricaGardenRoute





With a brilliant Safari under our belt it was time to head for the famed Garden Route along the southern coast of South Africa. The guidebooks all stated the Garden Route is spectacular and each time we told a local our next destination their eyes lit up with joy. We are on a fast pace and opted to fly from Johannesburg to Port Elizabeth where we would pick up our rental van and begin our drive to Cape Town. We flew into Port Elizabeth or P.E. because it is a transportation hub and only 45 minutes from our first stop of Jeffery's Bay(J-Bay). J-Bay is world renown for its great surf and our resident surfer Ed could not wait to get there. We had pre-booked a Hertz Rental van that turned out to be within a few inches of being big enough for six and luggage. However, the name Ventura painted on the side in pastel colors was all we needed to pile in and get started. That, and the fact that the next size up was twice the price. The Ventura would be our ride along the coast of South Africa.

While at the Honeyguide Safari Camp we met a couple who spent a week in J-Bay and they highly recommended a condo on the beach called Diaz-15. They said it was the nicest place on the beach and reasonably priced. We gave the owners a call from the airport and with a reservation confirmed we set out driving south on the wrong side of the road. It is funny how the simple act of driving on the left hand side of the road can play tricks on your sense of direction. Our first turn onto the N2, the major interstate along the coast, had us going in the wrong direction. Ed, who swears he was a compass in a previous life, had us turned around and heading in the proper direction. We had a short 45 minute drive and we were all looking forward to food and a little refreshment.

I am sure the only reason to come to J-Bay is to surf. That was our reason. Ed, the surfer, knew that J-Bay's supertubes is the best wave in South Africa and some of the best in the world. We arrived into J-Bay around 9:00 PM and found a sleepy coastal town with not a lot going on. We had an address for Diaz-15 and made a quick pass through town trying to find it. We missed our turn off and made a short 10 minute drive from one end of the town to the other. We found ourselves in a small neighborhood and figured it was time to turn around when we saw a guy hanging out on the side of the road with a large brick in his hand. It had all the appearances that he was waiting to smash in a car window as it drove by. Our suspicions were confirmed when we spotted another gentleman wearing a hood standing on the other side of the road, trying not to be noticed. We made a quick trip out of there; decided we should head for food and ask directions.

It was late and we did not have to many options so we stopped in at the Red Creek Spur Steak house. We walked in and little did we know we had entered the Twilight Zone. The Red Creek is a chain in South Africa and is comparable to Denny's. Our waiter, Lurch, greeted us in an unknown form of the English language and seemed very happy to see us. The Red Creek's specialty seemed to be sauces that you could purchase separately to put on your food. The menu was quite large and our waiter seemed very eager to take our drink order. It became apparent that recreational drugs were probably popular in J-Bay because we were not quite sure if our waiter who was standing in front of us was actually there. He returned shortly with our drinks and we asked him if he knew where Diaz-15 was in town. We gave him the street address and he spent fifteen minutes trying to figure out what side of the road we were on. The town of J-Bay does not have more than 10 streets in it and this guy had lived here his entire life. We had him stumped and he left to ask the cook if he knew were it was. He returned shortly to inform us nobody knew where it was. It didn't matter we were starved and wanted to place our order. We all ordered something different and asked for a variety of special sauces. Our space cadet waiter took our order without writing anything down, committing it all to memory. We couldn't wait to see what would actually arrive. To our waiter's credit our orders arrived without error. This guy had found his calling but I wonder if he gets lost on the way home. Ed gave the Diaz-15 folks a call for better directions and a short two minute drive later we were unloading our stuff. The Diaz-15 was located on the beach and was more than we expected. Our large, modern and spacious three bedroom condo that cost 350 Rand or $55 a night and it was the nicest place Karen and I had stayed in the last seven months. http://www.diaz15.co.za It didn't take long before all of us were asleep.

The next morning Ed was up early "checking it" and today there was no surf. In the light we could get a better view of things from our oceanfront balcony. Our balcony view includeda huge white sandy beach with a few rocky points and tons of freshly arrived shells. Karen was quite upset to see so many people out there picking up the best shells. Tomorrow she would be the first one on the beach for prime shelling. The backyard was a carefully tended garden complete with a full size trampoline. Six very hungry people headed out the door for breakfast at the San Francisco Cafe, home of the one free refill. It turns out in South Africa you do not get free refills on your coffee. The owner was from Chicago but had not lived in the United States for over 25 years. He explained to us how J-Bay was growing up fast and how the Cafe business was becoming very competitive. Thus the marketing ploy of "One Free Refill." Good food and great prices plus the one free refill. We all sat around the table amazed at what we had just eaten and the fact it cost about $2 a person! The strength of the US dollar was going to make this vacation a lot of fun.

I decided to hang out in the condo and the rest of the crew went to "Check-it." Kim informed us that a large part of surfing involves "Checking It." Before "Checking it" everyone headed to the numerous surf shops to get some gear. Ed was looking for a used surf board and the rest were purchasing J-Bay T-shirts as fast as possible. Kim even managed to find a very large pot that she had to have. Of course we did not have any extra room in the back of the Ventura but the pot would be joining us for a ride for the next 10 days. We felt like Japanese tourists buying everything in sight. Kris was actually beginning to hyperventilate with the stress of T-shirt selection; the choice of sizes and colors can really get to you.

No used boards to be had, but Ed had actually ordered a new board from home and we went to the industrial side of town to pick it up. New board loaded up with the new pot and we were on our way to "Check-It" at St. Francis Bay just west of J-Bay. The drive took us through beautiful countryside ranches and over some flats of a long inland bay. St. Francis is a quaint little town, that is nearly closed down because it is off-season. The seashore is a rugged point being pounded by huge breaking waves stirred up by gale force winds. We stop for a photo shoot on the wild coast. Around the corner is a large quite bay -- we "Checked-it" and there were no surf-quality waves. Back to Jeffery's, time to feed again and stop at the Drank Winkel. In Africanas, a hybrid of the Dutch language, Winkel means store and Drank means liquor. Ed managed to find a wave or two and the girls went for a long walk along the beach hunting for shells.

We were all eager to go out tonight for a nice dinner at the Breakers and a little bar action. This is a surf town and we expected to find a couple of good bars. The locals recommended Rick's and Grand Prix as the best spots in town. It turns out they are the only spots in town. Karen and I took the opportunity to introduce everyone to our new favorite drink Red Bull and Vodka. We first came across Red Bull in Thailand but we did not know what it was because the bottle was written in Thai. Everyone seemed to be consuming it at a frenzied pace. In Greece they actually had a bar called Red Bull that specialized in Red Bull drinks. We are not sure what is in it but the second ingredient on the list is Energy. The end effect is you get buzzed from the Vodka and energized by "The Bull"--just ask Kim. The thought of going home at 2:00 AM after a night on the bull is depressing. Kim was the party girl and she gave the big thumbs up to Red Bull. Ed left us early that night so he could get ready for a big day of surfing tomorrow.

Over the last couple of weeks, the surf at J-Bay has been not very good. Karen and Ed got up at the crack of dawn for shell collecting and surfing. They both killed it. Karen came back with a superb collection of shells that made the sleeping sisters a little jealous upon inspection of the ocean treasures. You have to get up early if you want the best shells. Ed was having an epic day surfing the tubes of J-Bay. We piled out for breakfast at the Sunflower Cafe and the mood of the table was a little bit of a hang over. After the standard hangover cure of Coke and a little food we were all ready to pick up Ed and head for the Garden Route. J-Bay is actually not on the Garden Route so currently this was an Ed stop and did not count for the girls who had a detailed itinerary for taking part in land-based mother nature activities.

Supertubes was filled with surfers and the local hounds running around playing in the sand. The hounds are Staffordshire Terriers and they pack a lot of energy and muscle into a short but well-built frame. The plan for the Ed pickup was to honk the horn and wave. It was a little difficult to pick Ed out of the surf lineup because everyone was wearing black wet suits with a hood. Ed's dilemma of course was the last wave had to be the best ride of the day. Kim let Ed know when he made his way to the beach that he had exceeded his playtime and should have been home an hour ago.

On the road toward Tsitsikamma National Park and the official start of the Garden Route. Tsitsikamma is 80 km of rocky coastline, the Storms River Mouth Gorge and of course, lots of flora and fauna. Both sides of the road are covered with blooming yellow and purple flowers set against the backdrop of a pristine forest. We happened to be in just the right season for the flower bloom which is in August, the southern hemisphere spring. The Garden Route has a forested coastline, dunes, beaches, lagoons and a very temperate climate. We highly recommend visiting in the off-season because the crowds are quite heavy during the southern hemisphere summer. If you like nature you will not be disappointed with the Garden Route.

We pulled into Tsitsikamma National Park and were met with huge crashing waves on the rocky shoreline. The facilities at the National Park are superb and it would be a perfect place to camp for a couple of days. They have cabins, lodges and green grass camping sites next to the ocean. We only had an hour, so we set off for a short walk to the Storms River Mouth Gorge. The gorge has a suspension bridge that allows you to venture out over the meeting of the Atlantic Ocean and the Storms River. They have black water rafting trips down the Storms River but something about sharks swimming up the river to eat crocodiles makes it seem, well, not that interesting. The trails to the suspension bridge are on wooden walkways and takes about an hour roundtrip to complete. There is a lot to do in this area but we are on a tight schedule and our next stop is Plettenburg Bay for the all important lunch feeding. Plettenburg Bay is worth a peek but very quite during the off season. We make our way down to the ocean looking for a restaurant with a view. We find a rustic little place overlooking the sandy white beaches and the mountains in the horizon. South Africa is quickly becoming one of our favorite countries. It is a little chilly outside, so Karen and Kim order up Gluwein-hot spicy red wine that warms them right up.



With nourishment a plenty our next stop is Knysna, a town that came highly recommended from people we had met on our travels. Knysna is a combination summer resort and an industrial town -- timber, shipbuilding and oysters. The town is built on a huge lagoon that opens into the ocean between two sandstone cliffs known as "The Heads." We booked at the Knysna River Club and rolled in around 6:30 PM. The chalets are actually log cabin style lodges. We picked a two bedroom, with a pull out couch in the living room. Unfortunately, it is cold both outside and inside the chalet with no fireplace. Karen and I went to bed at 8:30 and the rest of the crew hit the town running looking for a little action. It is off-season and not much is happening, but they did find their way to the Tin Roof Blues establishment that is a smaller knockoff of the Blues Cafe in the US.


A video of Scooter jumping from the bridge - The most popular videos are here

Today is going to be an adrenaline day because we are heading to the Bloukrans bridge for a little bungy jumping. Did I say little; I actually meant to say the world's highest bungy jump at 216 meters or around 650 feet. For those not good with distances, imagine jumping out a window from the 65th floor. The bridge itself is the tallest in the southern hemisphere and the third highest in the world. We had to backtrack an hour because yesterday when we drove by the wind was too strong and the bungi operation shutdown early. Ed and I were the only brave souls that planned on making a leap of faith.

A few years ago, Karen and I were on vacation in New Zealand with Karen's sister Kris and her husband Keith. The girls signed us up for the Awesome Threesome package, which meant we would bungy off a pipeline over a ravine 106 meters. At the time it was the world's highest bungy but now this distance had been doubled. I was excited about doing it again but a little nervous. Ed had never done a bungy jump before and is always looking for an adrenaline rush. The rest of the crew were going to stand back and pray for our return. I decided to add a little spin on my jump because I planned on jumping with my video camera strapped to my hand. The Sony PC-10 is actually perfect for this because it actually fits in the palm of your hand and is very light.

In New Zealand the bungy setup was fairly dodgy and did not have an air of professionalism. The folks running the Bloukrans jump had their act together. We each wore a body harness that served as a backup in case our feet slipped out of the bungy. The crew members all had on headsets for direct communications with each other. It probably doesn't make a difference but it sure does make you feel better. We had a group of five going including one guy who was 74 years old. He was a tough old bird, the largest of the group wearing only shorts, T-shirt and sandals. It was very cold out and this guy was acting like it was the middle of summer. He also got a good deal because if you are over the age of 65 they let you jump for free. After we all had our safety harnesses on it was time to make the walk. The bridge was not designed for bungy jumping so a wire frame walkway was added to the underside of the bridge. They should actually charge for the walk because it is an adventure in itself. The walkway floor is made of corrugated metal that gives you a clear look down. The walkway even sags a little when you step in the middle. If you can make it over the walkway the bungy will be a piece of cake.

We arrived at the center of the bridge and found a full crew, lots of equipment and loud music. After a short introduction it is time to get started. The heavy people go first because the bungy gets longer after each time it is used. The more weight you have the further the bungy will stretch on your free fall. The guy who is 74 years young is first and he sure is an inspiration. He can't wait for the jump. After his return to the bridge from his brief imitation of a bird-in-flight he gives everyone high fives and he has become 6'4", invisible and bullet proof. I hope when I hit 74 I have half his strength and enthusiasm about life. It is my turn now which means gut check time.

I sit in a chair and a crew member shows me the special bungy gear. It is a pad that gets wrapped around each ankle and secured with velcro. This is a far sight better than the green bath towel they used in New Zealand! After the padding is in place, he wraps a super strong strap around each ankle in a way that creates a slip knot. The rubber bungy actually attaches to the strap and the body harness in turn connects to the bungy. He explains the slip knot is the perfect knot for this jump because the more pressure you put on it the tighter it gets. They should change the name of the knot because the words 'slip' and 'bungy' should not be used in the same sentence. My feet are tied together and the video camera is secured in the palm of my right hand. The next part really scares you because you have to hop over to the staging section for the jump. Having your legs bound together does prevent you from running away.

Another guy comes over to make sure everything is connected the way it should be and everyone is calling out "Check, Check." It is time to head to the edge. They connect the bungy to my ankles and lower the slack over the edge. I have two guys holding on to me making sure I don't jump too early. These guys are good because you really can't wait to jump and they are keeping you pumped up the entire time. They call out Five, Four, Three, Two, One and I jump off the edge. I have flying dreams all the time, that somehow I figured out a way to jump off the ground and glide on the wind. I, of course, always wake up and can't remember the tricks to dream flying. I am currently not dreaming but I am certainly flying. I have enough state of mind to remember that I am video taping this so I point the camera at my face for a picture of fear. To get a timing perspective stop reading and count out one-thousand, two-one thousand, three-one thousand until you get to eight-one thousand. This is how long I am heading straight down at over 120 MPH before the bungy does its job of shooting me straight back up. I am flying pointing the video camera and thinking why hasn't the bungy caught yet. Because you just jumped out of a 65 story window and it will take a while before you hit the ground! At some point you stop falling but it is a very gradual and smooth transition before the stored energy of the bungy shoots you back up to the sky above. You get three or four complete up and down cycles before it is time to just hang upside down before you are rescued. The adrenaline and blood are all rushing to my head as I look into the gorge below. As I hang up side down spinning in circles, I am thankful that a whole bunch of rubber bands has allowed me to fly and will be returning me back to Earth. I look up and see my ride coming to get me. They lower a guy down on a steel cable attached to a giant winch motor. He checks to make sure I am still breathing, it should be obvious because I have not stop talking about what an amazing ride I just took. He hooks on his cable and radios up to the bridge crew to winch us up.

Once back on the bridge, it is Ed's turn. He seems a little nervous and he really should be. He is all strapped in and ready to go but he does not like the current song playing on the CD. He asks for one of his favorites by Green Day and it is now his turn to fly. Once he left the bridge that was the last we saw of him. Ten minutes later after they reel him back in he is ready to go again. Bungy jumping is an experience of a lifetime and I can't wait for a new world's highest bungy jump so I can fly again. For now I will have to be happy with my dream flying.

It would seem that we are having boy time and not doing what the girls want to do. Which means we have to get back in the Ventura, head back to Knysna for food and looking at old houses. Boys will be boys and girls will be girls. Knysna is famous for its oysters which are farmed in the lagoon under controlled settings. They are harvested and brought back to water tanks that help make sure they will be healthy when eaten raw. It is a cute Oyster bar that must get really packed during the summer. Since all they served was Oysters and beer we needed to find a more substantial meal. We landed at The Cranzgot's Restaurant with a spectacular view of the lagoon and the Heads looking out into the ocean. We also got a chance to watch the video that I took of me jumping off the bridge. It captured the experience very well and it is a home video worth watching.

After lunch we climb around on the cliffs looking down to the Indian Ocean. We are in a very upscale neighborhood which usually goes hand-in-hand with spectacular views of the ocean the world over. You can only imagine what this area was like before the white settlers came and forced the Hottentots (native people) to abandon such beauty. Now we are driving on paved roads admiring the size and splendor of the estates. Kim is firmly in control and our next stop is a quaint little village of Belvedere known for it's 1850's Norman style church. This is not a village in the African definition but a place that says, "I have a lot of money therefore I chose to live here." Behind the white picket fences and under the thick thatch roofs, people are playing with their dogs, sipping wine, overlooking the water, and waiting for the sunset to end another day.

We have driven to the other side of the lagoon across from Knysna so we decide to continue on to the ocean. We stop at the Brenton-On Sea Hotel for a sundowner. This would be a great place to stay for a couple of days. It overlooks an 8 km sandy white beach. Somehow it is dinner time but we are more interested in finding a beer or two because of our big lunch. Our last stop for the evening was at the happening Tapas Restaurant at Thesen's Jetty. The word Tapas is being used loosely because it is pretty much a dive and food consists of things heated up in one of six microwaves. They had a band when we first got there which allowed us to have a few drinks and a couple Tapas. When the band packed up they switched to very bad Kareoke which meant it was time to go home.

Today is going to be a long day because we are heading to ostrich farm country three hours inland. We all contemplated going on an ostrich ride but we settled for a quick roadside picture. The Outdshorn region is known for ostriches, wild flowers, mountain passes and our destination of Cango caves. The Cango caves offer a couple of tours depending on your health, size and spirit of adventure. We, of course, pick the max tour and so do twenty other people signed up for the 1:00 PM departure. The caves are once again more than we expected. The tour starts out in large caverns filled with stalagmites and stalactites touching each other after millions of years of growth. The chambers are very impressive and the lighting highlights the beauty. After walking for thirty minutes through various caverns we begin our adventure portion of the tour. We begin with the Lumbago Walk, the narrow Tunnel of Love, the even smaller Devil's Chimney and finally sliding through the Letter Box. Climbing through impossibly small crevices was more fun than you would think. At the end of the tour we are allowed to walk back without our guide, it gives you a completely different perspective when you can see the giant rooms and rock formations without a tour group. We all thought it was a good bang for the buck and well worth the inland detour. The drive back to the coast took us through miles of Ostrich farms and cloud covered passes to the ocean.

Mossel Bay is our next destination and it does not have too much to offer the tourist. Ed managed to sneak in two hours of surfing while we headed to town to do a little tourist "Checking It." We found a museum that was devoted to the discovery of South Africa by the Portuguese sailors. They even have a replica of the ship that Diaz used to sail from Portugal to Mossel Bay, South Africa in 1488. The replica ship was built in 1988 in Portugal and sailed to Mossel Bay. I guess it had a few water leaking problems because it is now in the center of the museum and it will probably never leave. We did the money exchange thing and poked our head into a couple of tourist shops. It is time to go get Ed and continue our drive to Hermanus for Whale watching. Ed was being Ed and we found him still trying to catch the next big wave.

Hermanus is a popular seaside resort; its claim to fame is whale watching. Boats are not allowed within 300 meters of whales, so the whales swim close to the shore putting on a great show. Karen decided to partake in Red Bull during the drive and was soon putting on an original rendition of the Karen show. It was quite entertaining and we are still trying to figure out what she was talking about. We arrived late into Hermanus and picked the Windsor Hotel for our evening's lodging. It had a great location on the ocean and in the center of town. We managed to sneak into the Ocean Basket before the last dinner seating and we were rewarded with outstanding seafood. Most of us had the line fish which is Kingclip and our plates were all clean enough to be put back on the shelf. A couple of cocktails at the trendy O'Bar club and it was time to take Karen home because the Karen Show was done.



We are in the middle of whale watching season which lasts from June-November. The Southern Right whales head up from the cold water in Antarctica to Hermanus to calve. Kris and Keith lived in Hawaii for six years so they have tons of whale watching experience. After breakfast we head out the backdoor of the hotel for a short walk to the cliffs. What makes Hermanus special for whale watching is the watching of whales from the cliffs. The whales are known to swim up to the cliff edge with their calves and hang out. If you are lucky enough you will be able to look straight down into the water and see whales up close. We did not have that kind of whale luck but we did get to see numerous whales playing in the bay. The whale entertainment started with a couple of jumps which leaves you speechless each time something that big comes roaring out of the water. Ed picked us up in the Ventura and we followed the bay around stopping at the different beaches. The town is stunning and we all decided that we could move to Hermanus. Everywhere we went whales could be seen playing within a hundred yards of shore. Hermanus is well worth a visit and an even nicer place to live.

The whales could have kept us entertained all day but we have an even more important task ahead of us. Did someone mention Wine country? The Krumholtz, girls are giddy with the anticipation of wine vineyards, yummy food and an afternoon of wine tasting. The boys all understand this is a chick thing but I think we were all equally excited about kicking back some wine. The drive is along the coast and the scenery and views are unequaled to anyplace we have ever been. The ocean meets the Africa continent with a beauty that is impossible to describe. You will have to visit for yourself to truly understand.






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This page last changed on 04-Jun-2007 20:25:33 EDT by 76.110.18.169.




Karen out looking for shells
Diaz 15 on the beach
J-Bay is a small surfing town
Heading out to Supertubes
Is this Ed?
Ed done for the day
Storm River Gorge at Tsitsikamma
The Highest Bridge in the Southern Hemisphere and the highest Bungy.
Plettenburg Bay
Getting ready to Jump
Ed practicing technique
Walking on the bottom of the bridge
74 years young
Its my turn
This is all I get?
That
Lowering the Bungy
The view below
Ever wondered what
your face looks like at
120 MPH after jumping 216 Meters?
I am going back up for another bounce
The ride is over and they have come to get me
Ed
Perfect Form
Oyster bar
The Heads in Knysna
Cliff view in Knysna
Oyster farms in the Bay
Brenton on the Sea
Knysna River Lodge
Herolds Bay Park
Herolds Bay
Road to Outdshron
Cango Caves
Who
I can
Roadside Ostrich
Heading back to the coast
This is it in Mussel Bay
Replica of Diaz boat in 1488
Ed gets some more surf time
Hermanus for Whales
Whale watching from the cliffs
A Whale Jumping
Did you see it?
It is just a whale!
Another whale watching beach
Windsor Inn on the ocean