The Road Behind
VenezuelaTrinidad
Curacao
Galapagos
Ecuador
Peru
Bolivia
Paraguay
Argentina
Chile
Hong Kong
Thailand North
Thailand South
Malaysia
Cambodia
Singapore
Nepal
Kathmandu
Royal Trek
Nepal Trek
India
India Palace
Udaipur
Bangalore
Greece
Islands
Rhodes
Camping
Olympia
Turkey
Istanbul
Bath
Bursa
Cappadocia
Bodrum
South Africa
Garden Route
Cape Town
Namibia
Fish River
Etosha
Botswana
Zimbabwe
Wedding
Great Ruins
Germany
Bathroom
Netherlands
Spain
Madrid
Seville
Granada
Gibraltar
Morocco
Portugal
Sintra
France
Normandy
Egypt
Pyramids
Nile
Aswan
Abusimbel
Luxor
Valley of Kings
Alexandria
Red Sea
Jordan
Kings Valley
Aman
Palestine
The Road Ahead
IsrealCzech Republic
Austria
Italy
Switzerland
England
Find pages
Unused pages
Undefined pages
Page Index
Set your name in
UserPreferences
UserPreferences
Referenced by
LeftMenu
JSPWiki v2.2.33
NepalTrek |
|
| Your trail: | |
The bus ride back to town was very very local. Karen and Roxy were able to get a seat in the back but Ryan and I who are both 6' 4" got stuck standing in the front. Every time we stopped more people would get on to the point that we were packed in like sardines. It was only a short twenty minute ride followed by a taxi ride to the tourist section of town for hotel hunting. We settled on the Base Camp Resort because it had air-conditioning and was $30 US a night. We found a great spot to eat at Baba's and they make a most excellent veggie burger. After a good night sleep and numerous hot showers we began to put a plan in place for our tea house trek. We needed trekking permits and we found out that it takes a day to make that happen. You drop off the paperwork at a small window at a shack under a tree. It is the permit office and you have to have a permit. You are required to turn in the paperwork with picture in the morning before 10:00 AM and then you return that afternoon and pick up your permit. If you go through a trekking company they will do all this for you and can probably make it happen in an hour. The main reason it takes all day is to encourage another night's stay in Pokhara. With another day free we set out looking for money. They did not have any ATM's in Nepal so the only way to get money is traveler checks or cash advance on credit card. The banks have you fill out a form with the amount you need and then you have to wait until they get the latest currency rates faxed to them. This all seemed a bit odd and we did not feel like waiting that long. We stumbled across an exchange place that had a sneaky way of doing cash advances. They had a deal worked out with a local travel agency and they would bill your credit card as a safari trip for say $100 US. They would then give you back local currency at an exchange rate that provided them about 5% profit. With money in hand we set out for food and walking. The tourist section of Pokhara is actually quite large and filled with restaurants, shopping and bars. Of course the road is not paved and everything is a little run down but for the most part it is enjoyable. Staying lakeside is the place to be in Pokhara.
We are planning on a three day two night tea house trek in the Annapurna region. We only needed to carry our day pack with clothes and water. No food or camping gear is required because everything is available at the local tea houses along the way. The trails are so well traveled and are marked with signs pointing you in the right direction that a guide or porter is not needed. It is advisable not to hike alone because there have been cases of crime and harassment. That night we meet up with Roxy and Ryan at the Hungry Eye for dinner and drinks. The Hungry Eye had good food and provided local entertainment with traditional dance ceremonies. We had a big day ahead of us tomorrow so bedtime came early.
The next morning we stored our bags at the hotel and arranged for a car to take us to the start of our trek. We were totally relying on the Lonely Planet Trekking guide and we hoped that it would serve us well. The taxi experience was similar to the last one and before we got on the way the driver stopped for water, oil, a jack and gas. The drive should have taken an hour but it took over two hours at blazing speeds through the mountains. We were dropped off at a road side town called Naya Pul. The little town had ten shacks selling food and beverages. We grabbed our bags from the trunk and start asking the locals to point us in the direction of our trail. Within seconds we are walking down a garbage strewn path toward Bierthani the official starting point of the Annapurna treks. We can not walk fast enough to get past Naya Pul and all the hubbub.
Ryan is the official time keeper, mostly because he is the only one wearing a watch. Thirty minutes later we arrive at Bierathani and check in at the checkpoint. You are required to check in and submit your permits. This allows them to keep track of any trekkers who get lost. From past statistics posted on the wall we see that June is the least popular month for trekking. We didn't mind because that meant we would have the mountains to ourselves. We are on our way again and the local villagers are very helpful pointing you in the right direction, you simply mumble a close approximation of the village you are looking for and they will mumble back and point. Once again, the further we walked from the "Big City Life" the friendlier the people were. They wanted to chat and discuss how far and how long to the next village. Just as the guidebook warned the estimations on how long it would take to the next village varied widely. On one particular long ascent of four hours to the hilltop village of Ghandrunk, one gentleman told us three hours, another woman told us one hour if you are fast and two hours if you are slow. We did not consider ourselves in the fast category but we arrived in Ghandrunk one hour and fifteen minutes later. Ghandrunk is the second largest Gurung village in Nepal with 200 people. It is a cluster of well-maintained rustic houses surrounded by rice and corn fields. Amazingly enough they have running water, electricity and a satellite phone. After five hours of walking uphill we are ready to stop. We pushed ourselves much harder today than Hari pushed on our previous camping trek. The guidebook suggested wondering around the village before settling for a lodge. The last thing we wanted to do was wonder around a town built on a big hill. We spotted a couple of signs leading to the "lodge of the year" for four consecutive years. That was the place for us and it only cost three dollars a night. The place was not a Holiday Inn and we were surprised to have our own bathroom and shower. We were also glad that we had our shower shoes because something was growing in the shower. On the positive side, the garden was full of flowers and mountain views were the reason we went trekking. Dinner of Dahl Baht (rice and lentils) and curried organic veggies was delicious. The four of us sat in the courtyard drinking beer and telling stories until the hotel staff came out and offered us blankets letting us know it was time to go to bed.
The next morning came early and we got up before sunrise hoping to get some good pictures of the sun coming over the Annapurna range and Fish Tail Mountain. The scene was magical and did not lend itself to a picture but a sunrise over the Himalayas should be enjoyed in person. After breakfast we started to inquire about the route to the Jhinu Danda and the hot springs. It turns out that the normal tourist route takes six hours and the local route only take three hours. We would need to hire a guide because the local route was not well marked. We paid a generous 350 Rs or $6 US for our morning guide. We left around 9:30 AM and from the pace of our guide he wanted to get back as soon as possible. He even borrowed a pair of boots to aid in the hike. The path took us through local farm lands and was filled with ups and downs. The last hour of the hike was straight up and we were back on the main trekking trail. The tea houses at the peak would probably be our lodging for tonight but we wanted to check out the hot springs first. We had visions of natural hot water springs and spending the afternoon soaking in the sun. After another 30 minutes we came to a fast moving river that bordered the hot springs. We found water bubbling out of the ground and channeled into a man made pool. The only problem was that the tub was filled with algae and none of us planned on getting in. This was our main goal for our trek and it was disappointing but we regrouped and walked back up the hill for dinner, beer and a good night's sleep. Our quaint and rustic lodge consisted of two cots, wooden floors and balsa wood dividers between the rooms. We spent the rest of the afternoon on the second floor reading, whittling, napping and playing solitaire.
The next morning we actually hit the trail before 8:00 AM. We had at least five hours of walking along another local trail. This was our last day and we would be returning from the point that we started. Our host told us that the trail was fast and flat. Please keep in mind that flat is a relative term and in Nepal it means up and down. The weather was great for walking and we made good progress. The path was beautiful and following the river was refreshing. When the sun came out, the sweat was soon to follow and it made the rest of the day drag on forever. We began discussing our ailments something we had not previously done sore feet, tired legs, and major back sweat. This was our eighth day of walking and we should have been in better shape. For lunch we took an hour break for multiple beverages and pasta. We were feeling refreshed but we still had an hour and half ahead of us just to catch a taxi for another sixty minute drive back to Pokhara. Karen left her knee brace and walking stick I made her at the restaurant and even though it would only take fifteen minutes to walk back we decided to donate them to the next trekker that found them. It cost 500 Rs for our ride back to Pokhara and the thought of a cold beer, air-conditioning, and a hot shot shower kept us going. When we arrived back at our hotel, we were reminded that the power was out for three hours and that sent us back to BaBa's for dinner and beer. The lentil and cheese burger at BaBa's is world class and should not be missed if you are in Pokhara.
We signed up for a 6:30 AM bus back to Kathmandu via The Swiss Bus company. We selected the luxury tourist mini bus for a reason -- it is the best you can get in a country were luxury is really unattainable. The luxury tourist bus did not have air conditioning and was filled with people. The driver decided that he had to stop for fifteen minutes every hour in the grossest roadside cafe he could find. We would all pile out, stand around and swat flies until it was time to leave again. The entire time you had to fend off the locals trying to sell you something. The day dragged on and we were dropped off a mile from Themal Street everyone's final destination. This was another scam because the area was filled with locals trying to get you to their hotel or hire out their taxi. Ryan arranged for a free ride to the Hotel Manang. The taxi driver did not know we had already had a room at the hotel which meant the hotel would not pay him a commission. After we piled into the car, we all had to sit in each other's lap and it really had pushed us all to our limits. In the lobby of the hotel the driver learned that he would not get a commission from the hotel and asked for payment. A small conflict occurred between Ryan, the taxi driver, Karen and myself that ended with some hostilities. It had been a long day and we are all ready to do absolutely nothing. Karen and I checked in and headed straight to K.C.'s for a big salad and pasta. As soon as we finished Roxy and Ryan showed up looking for a salad and a good meal. We finished the night reading the rest of our books and watching T.V.
We still had a couple of days to kill in Nepal and we decided just to hang out. Roxy and Karen went shopping and returned with no bags but an idea about what they wanted and the costs. The stores number in the hundreds and they are located in every available space. The owners stand outside and politely ask you if you would like to come into their store. The stores are all very tempting filled with colorful items, huge beads, gems, silver, antiques, rugs, clothes, leather, and paper mache. Karen had a great time shopping with a fellow shopper and she was relieved that she did not have to listen to me asking, "Can we go."
That night we went to Rum Doodles Restaurant named after the fictional book written about the climb to the highest mountain in the world. It was very popular book and it for the most part people did not know the book was fictional and the mountain did not exist. I shifted into Bacardi and Coke, followed by dinner. The town was focused on the world cup soccer matches and we ended up at one of the local casinos called L'Annapurna. The casino is for tourists only and a popular destination for Indian tourists. We played blackjack and before we left we had doubled our money and walked out with an extra $40 profit. Karen and I spent the next three days hanging out, doing travel writing, and watching movies on HBO when the power was on. We did watch "Seven Years in Tibet" at the Kathmandu Guest House. The theater was new and all sixteen seats were full. I also read the book during our trek and felt a since of loss knowing the tragedy that occurred in Tibet when the Chinese invaded. It had enough of an effect that we skipped going on a seven day trip to Tibet while it is under Chinese rule.
It was time to leave Nepal and the plan was to catch the 6:00 PM flight to New Delhi, India. We did not have a ticket and I guess the airlines are not use to people just showing and catching a flight. I dealt with getting tickets and Karen tried to figure out how to deal with our expired Visas. We had overstayed by three days and according to our guidebook it was a minor thing and would only cost two dollars a day extra. Again we ran into a little difficulty and they wanted us to go to the downtown immigration office and extend our visas. We were leaving in an hour and I pointed out that it would be a little hard for us to catch our flight. After some busybody paper work we paid our fee and the money got stuck in a drawer. We would miss Nepal and we definitely planned on coming back for a twenty-one day trek in the future.
|
Go to top
|
| This page last changed on 27-Apr-2006 23:27:42 EDT by 70.171.24.221. |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |