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NamibiaEtosha





After a few hours of driving we arrived at Twyfelfonten to see cave paintings and rock engravings located in a rather harsh landscape. We saw early stone age petroglyphs of the San hunters depicting giraffes, elephants, rhinos, lions etc. Then on to the Organ Pipes, a short path leading down to oddly shaped basalt rock columns formed by volcanic activity. From there we could view Burnt Mountain a 122 km long volcanic ridge... relatively unexciting sites. Can you believe we were the only tourists there-- seemingly in the middle of nowhere? Dizzy was back at camp busily preparing our chicken and rice meal. We enjoyed a beautiful clear sunset-- almost got 'big sun'. Our campground was the Aba-Huab Camp, very basic but with the best shower facilities of the trip. You showered in a tree that had the plumbing fixtures built into it and everything was enclosed by a large grass fence. The hot water was supplied by a 55 gallon drum that set on top of a fire pit. Big campfire, couple of night caps and called it a day.

We wake at 6 AM for a breathtaking sunrise, the day is clear and cool. We had a short drive this morning to the petrified forest of Namibia. It is a self-guided walk through paths strewn with large petrified tree trunks and lots of smaller pieces. The age of these trees is said to be 260 million years old and they arrived to this destination by a huge flood. Also in this area were Welwitschias, prehistoric plants that are downright unattractive. A midsize plant is supposedly about 1,000 years old. We now had a three hour drive ahead of us to get to Etosha National Park-- it was a longish hot day.

Etosha National Park is the world's largest national park one of the most important game parks in Africa. It covers more than 22,000 kilometers of the country. The park has dense brush and open plains and lots of wild animals. The area does not have a lot of water so the game viewing at the water holes is what makes this place unique. There are three tourist camps in the national park with bungalows and campgrounds. We are staying at the Okaukuejo Camp which is 18 kilometers from the Andersson gate. It has a large active water hole that is floodlit at night, a store and a swimming pool. We arrived at 3 PM most campers set up their tents and headed straight for the swimming pool. It was not quite the pools we are used to in Florida but it was refreshing and did the trick.


Etosha National Park Video - The most popular videos are here

We had a scheduled game drive at 4 PM but the thought of getting back on the bus and driving around for another two hours was not very appealing. Scooter and I opted to stay at camp to relax rather than get back on the bus; it was a wise decision. Instead, we drank a couple of ciders around the pool and then went to the water hole for sun downers with Ann and Jill. The observation area at the water hole is separated by a large wall, a deep ditch and an electrified fence. We grab a seat and wait for the movie to start it didn't take long. A heard of elephants walked in like they owned the joint, which based on the reaction of the other animals they do. It is amazing to watch the elephants play with a gorgeous sunset as the backdrop while I have my feet up enjoying a cocktail. I am sure my photos will not do the scene justice. Surprise, surprise we had spaghetti for dinner and then went right back out to the water hole along with 200 other people from the camp and bungalows. This was by far the best water hole I could imagine--surrounded by benches and lit up so that the animals could not see all the people -- they came and went all night hippos, giraffes, and elephants.

Early morning game drive turned up giraffe, a honey badger, spotted hyenas, ground squirrels, gemsbok, kudu, zebra, and loads of springbok. There are over 300 species of birds here, seeing so many made me wish I knew more about them. We arrived back at camp before 10 for a breakfast of eggs and beans then had the remainder of the day free. Scooter chose to work on the computer while I read and washed clothes. Then it was time for sunset game viewing down at the water hole, I just can't get enough. Dinner was a big event tonight, a braai, which included steak, potatoes, squash and a big salad--then back to the watering hole. In just 30 minutes we saw 1 elephant, 7 black rhino, 3 jackels, and 2 giraffe--just amazing. I really enjoyed watching the animal etiquette they are quite polite and don't mind waiting their turn. Scooter had the good luck of wondering back down to the water hole between 1 and 3 AM and filmed a leopard. Okaukuejo is a great rest camp with excellent facilities in the bush.

Being in the largest national park in the world means yes you guessed it, lots of driving. The next rest camp is 150 kilometers away driving slowly through the national park. We see more wildlife; herds of zebra, black-faced impala, a pride of lions, giraffes, a red hartebeest, kudus, springboks, steenboks, wildebeest, and many unique birds. It is hot today and everyone is uncomfortable but compared to Asia this is not bad at all. Camp tonight is still within Etosha at Namutoni. This camp is centered around a large white German fort from 1899. It was built in an effort to control the Ovambo tribes. The fort has been restored and has been opened for tourism since 1956. This camp is also nice and not so crowded with a pool, camping, chalets, store, museum, water hole and an excellent restaurant. The remainder of the afternoon was spent around the pool. We all opted for dinner at the park restaurant. We found an excellent buffet and great service, a needed change from the African Route Menu selection.

We are now heading towards the Botswana border and our final camping site in Namibia at Popa Falls. On the road at 7:30 AM we drive to Tsumeb so Dizzy and Dylan can load up on supplies and we grab a snack at the Etosha Cafe and Biergarten. I was also happy to learn that even in the desert with nothing to do Scooter and I can still run out of money. We had to go to the bank for small amount of Namibian cash that would hopefully last for the next 24 hours. Tomorrow we would be in Botswana and they do not accept or exchange Namibian dollars. We were driving toward Popa Falls located in the Caprivi region. At the village of Bagani we took a right down a dirt road and stopped at the government run MET campground with a view of the unimpressive cascading water that somehow got the name Popa Falls. Actually, I was happy just to see the beautiful deep blue river surrounded by forest a welcome change after the dry desert environment.



Camp was set up after we all walked down to the river and played with a young lost bleating goat. This campground was OK, I was just getting tired of setting up the tent in the dirt. The showers had hot water but were crowded because there were two other overland trucks in camp. The campground store had burnt down a couple months earlier which meant we could not restock the bar. The Botswana border was only a few kilometers away and Dylan wanted to be the first to cross at 6 AM. We all pre-packed the bus that night and went to bed early for a 5 AM wake-up call. We would be leaving Namibia with a little sand in our pockets but a full appreciation for the beauty of the desert.







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This page last changed on 09-Jun-2007 17:05:05 EDT by 76.110.18.169.




The middle of nowhere
A tree, no bark, no leaves, just white
Rock paintings of San People
Wildlife from 10,000 years ago
Giraffe
Lion and Rhino
A very old plant up to 1500 years
Petrified Forrest
AbaHuba Camp
Shower in a tree
Hot water heater
Zebra at Etosha water hole
Elephant king of the water hole
Sit back and watch
Sunset and more are coming
Giraffe drinking at night
Tourist watching the water hole
Lots of Overland trucks
Etosha Park has first rate accommodations
Zebra everywhere
Dik Dik the smallest antelope
Lots of time to read crossing the desert
Poppa Falls
Camp at Poppa Falls
Most important, nice bathrooms