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Leaving the city of Amman, Jordan's capital we continued North to Jeresh with Jamal. Jeresh is one of the most extensive Roman cities still in existence. It's heyday was under the Roman general Pompey in 63 BC. The four of us had been sightseeing for several weeks and were close to being burned out even in the presence of a truly great sight like Jeresh. We gave ourselves a guided tour of the city from the south gate to the north gate-the triumphal arch, hippodrome, oval plaza, 4,000 seat south theater, temple of Zeus, we strolled through the cardo (central walkway), visited the antiquities museum and the temple of Artemis-this city is impressive and this day it was very peaceful. We were told that more tourists would be traveling after spending Christmas in Jerusalem or Bethlehem. It is said that 90% of Jeresh is still not excavated. Jamal really wants to earn his keep and take us to a desert castle, a group of structures that originally formed a chain from Damascus to Jericho built in the 7 and 8 centuries by the Umayyads....but we had other plans. McDonalds was in our future, we had a craving and it had nothing to do with desert castles. We had to talk Jamal into taking us to McDonalds even though we were paying him to take us where ever we wanted. He wanted us to eat traditional Jordanian food but for the moment we had had our fill of hummus and pita. McDonalds was open only for take out due to Ramadan, we were happy to eat it in the car where fast food should be eaten. Scooter and Mark went to the bank to exchange our dinars to schekels and keep just enough to pay Jamal because our next stop was the border. If you find yourself in Jordan needing a taxi driver/tour guide give Jamal Suradi (united rent a car) a call at 079597149. The cost is 55 Jordanian dinars per day and he will drive you anywhere. He might also tell you stories about being in the PLO, knowing Patti Hearst, and San Francisco in the 60's. Mark assured us that there was no exit fee from Jordan to the West Bank so we did not keep any dinars, however, there is a charge of 4 dinars and 1.50 dinars for border transportation. A helpful local laughing at our predicament exchanged money for us which was lucky since the banks were closed. No worries, we ended up in the West Bank. The security check point in Israel is operated by the military where the average age must be 18. We had our passports stamped with the Israeli stamp even though they gave us the option--now we will be unable to visit Syria, they have something against Israeli passport stamps.
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