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From a world wonder standpoint our decision to include Egypt on our travels was an easy one. It is now past midnight and officially December 2, arriving via Martin Air , a KLM affiliate, from Paris to Cairo with no where to stay. No problem, we've done this before, the hotel reservation office is open, offering us a 3-star hotel (whatever that means in Egypt) and free transportation. We joined forces with Janine from London, who is also a spur of the moment traveler. The three of us go to the Raja Hotel, which seemed to be the only option that the hotel reservation office was offering we think because the airport staff needed a ride home and they live near the Raja. For the past 2 years Egypt's tourist industry has been suffering as a result of a tragic terrorist killing at the pyramids. The government is now working very hard to promote Egypt as a safe and welcoming country for travel. It is in fact a premier travel destination as far as major sights are concerned. There are 5 world wonders here: Pyramids at Giza, Lighthouse in Alexandria, Suez Canal linking the Red Sea with the Mediterranean Sea, High Dam in Aswan and Abu Simbel near the Sudanese border. As well as dozens of other historical and cultural highlights. Today, with very little sleep, we started on the sights of Cairo. First, a visit to the Egyptian Museum everyone has told us not to miss this. It is chock full of treasures including those from King Tut's Tomb. One guidebook suggests visiting the museum upon your arrival for an initiation and again after your travels through the country for a better appreciation. I think we will only do it once! Fortunately, we were somewhat prepared for the craziness of Cairo other travelers had been warning us of driving habits and the shear numbers of people and cars. Now that we were here it was not as chaotic as we had imagined but don't get me wrong it was busy...but to some degree controlled. Drivers have a passion for their horns. One of the first things you notice is the air quality or lack of it, breathing all the carbon monoxide and looking at the haze shrouding the city. The three of us took a taxi to the museum after an Egyptian breakfast offering fuul (beans) and stale toast. This museum holds 100,000 antiquities from almost every period of Egypt's ancient history. Reportedly, there is so much stuff that if you only spent 1 minute at each exhibit, it would take 9 months to see everything. We wandered around with a basic map trying to comprehend how old it all was and how well preserved. In fact, the jewelry was very similar to what you might see at any department store today. The artifacts from King Tut's tomb are spectacular, it is hard to imagine what has become of all the other ancient ruler's tombs and treasures. Scooter also went to the Royal Mummy Room, I chose to skip this for two reasons; one, did not need to see petrified dead people two, there is a hefty additional cost. After 3 hours we hooked up with Janine and took a snack break. Janine and I were set on taking public transportation to the Pyramids but Scooter got caught by a persistent (the only kind) taxi driver who promised to take us to all the sights for a very fair price which we secured before getting into the car. Saqqara was the necropolis for Memphis (not Tennessee) when it was the capital of Egypt during the Old Kingdom period. This area covered 7 kilometers. We saw Zoser's Step Pyramid, maybe Egypt's oldest. This whole area had been ignored by archeologists until the 19th century. It is still being excavated and restored.There were no tourists here when we visited which left us as the only targets for the unofficial guides who want tips for smiling at you. The step-style pyramid was constructed by Imhotep, King Zoser's chief architect, at the time, it was the largest stone structure ever built. Between leaving here and going to the Giza district we had time to visit a papyrus shop for a demo on the art form. Papyrus is to Egypt what rugs are to Turkey. The road to the pyramids was built in the 1860's so that the Empress Eugenie could travel the 11 km from Cairo, but not paved until President Jimmy Carter visited. The ancient Greeks considered the Great Pyramids to be one of the original seven wonders of the world. They are currently Egypt's most visited monuments. The pyramids have survived 4,500 years. Looking down the road and seeing the Great Pyramids of Giza on the horizon is surreal, you just can't quite believe that the image you have seen so many times is real. Our taxi driver/tour guide feels that we should see the Pyramids at sunset by camel. We reluctantly agree. Scooter did the bargaining (essential in Egypt) but still did not seem clear on the price. The pyramids were incredible especially by camel back. I was an experienced rider, this being my second time on a camel. We bumped along over the desert for an hour and a half checking out the Sphinx which looks minute compared to the size of the three large pyramids. These were the massive tombs built for 3 pharaohs from the 4th Dynasty; Cheops, Chephren, and Mycerinus. Along causeway connected the mortuaries to the Nile and the mummy was placed in the middle of the pyramid in huge stone sarcophaguses. So much time was spent preparing for death because the Egyptians had a strong belief in the afterlife and underworld. We rode into the sunset atop of our desert beasts. Scooter went to see the Sphinx inside and the verdict was; not too exciting. After our ride we had a little run in with the gentleman that led us around. He wanted backsheesh, we would give him some but not enough. He pouted and we felt bad but felt we were paying enough for the ride to cover his tip. It ruined my trip, my stomach got upset. At the end of the trip 6 people were trying to help us make a decision just like at the start of the trip. It is frustrating when the natives gang up on you, confuse you, weaken you and then you crack--it happens at least once to everyone. Following the camel ride conflict we did something more comfortable like eat at Pizza Hut. We were actually waiting for the overpriced sound and laser light show to begin so we could watch for free from the street in front of Pizza Hut. We were going broke today with all of our activities and backsheesh. A little here and a little there is suddenly a lot. Returning to Cairo we hit rush hour and moved at a snail's pace for an hour. Janine was trying to figure out how and when to go to the bus station tonight because she really wanted to go to the beach. I am not even sure she really cared to go to the pyramids. The cab driver made the decision for her, he would drop us off and take her right to the station 2 hours early. Our first day in Cairo passed: our advice would be to expect a challenging first day to learn the expectations and limitations, read your guidebook thoroughly and follow the advice. Cairo will get to you but don't let it scare you. See the sights and move on.
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