Our first stop is the Toul Sleng Museum, the genocide museum, displaying the inhumane
acts of Pol Plot and the Khemer Rouge. He was worse than Hitler and killed 2-3 million
people. Pol Plot had a college degree from France and upon his return to Cambodia worked
his way up in power and decided the country should be communist. This required every
citizen to be a farmer and he forced the complete evacuation of Phnom Penh. Pol Pot had
teachers, doctors, lawyers anyone with an education; arrested, tortured and killed. The
total number of deaths are unknown but it estimated that over 3 million Cambodian citizens
were killed. This rein of terror was from 1975-1979 and the world stood back and watched.
The Royal Palace built by King Norodum in 1866 is still the official residence of the
Royal family but is only used for official ceremonies. The King and his family live in
Siem Reap. The Silver Pagoda named because the floor is made up of 5,000 solid silver
tiles. The museum in the Silver Pagoda is not very good but contains some priceless
jewelry and statues. Most of Cambodia's valuables have been stolen during their rough
history.
The Killing Fields of which the movie was named is located 45 minutes outside of town.
This just happens to be one location that the government tried to determine how many
people were buried in mass graves. The drive itself was an insight to daily living - very
rough. We arrived at 5:30 PM to The Killing Fields and a guide was able to give us a late
tour. The monument is a tall glass pagoda structure filled with crushed skulls, bones and
collected clothes. The Killing Fields are acres of communal graves where the Khemur Rouge
buried people in mass graves. They are still there and everywhere you walk you can see
human bones in the ground. It was very sad and gave me a new understanding of why the
United States Government gets involved in world wide peace keeping. Some countries just
cannot protect themselves from terrible, sick people who sometimes come to power. This was
a modern day tragedy and it should of been prevented.
The city of Phnom Penh was completely deserted for four years and people only began to
move back from the countryside in 1980. Cambodia has a long way to go but the people are
optimistic and are working hard for the future. The first election in Cambodia was three
years ago and they have had a couple of uprisings since but the people are hoping the next
election in July will put good leaders in place.
Our tour guide dropped us off in the tourist area on the Tongle River. Dinner was at
the FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club). This old open air building was filled with
atmosphere, good pizzas and vino. Geckos and crickets seemed ready to take over the place,
they added a nice touch. We took moped taxi's home to our nice room in the refugee camp
area.
We had a 6:30 AM flight and our taxi driver wanted to pick us up at 5:00 AM. We forgot
about the time change so we were standing outside at 4:00 AM. Major sleep screw up and we
will try not to let it happen again. Once again we were the first ones at the airport
including the people who work there. Angkor Temples are one of the seven modern wonders of
the world. They are located in northwest Cambodia outside Siem Reap. They are over 1,000
years old and too big and intact to be called ruins. The whole area is 400 Sq.Km., there
are 100 monuments including 24 major temples. It is an amazing place.
The flight lasted one hour and we only had 10 hours to see the ancient ruins so we
hired a tour at the tourist desk. A car,driver and guide cost $40 US and we started our
tour at 8:00 AM. First a quick stop in town at the market - tried rambutan fruit or hairy
looking strawberries - pretty good. Then to the bank for more money and some aspirin at a
pharmacy. We set out for the countryside to Angkor Thom. This means great city, it is a
walled city built in the 12th century. It holds Bayon temple and elephant terrace. It is
huge and awesome looking with Buddha faces everywhere. A short drive away is Ta Prohm, a
temple that has been left largely in its natural state since its discovery by French
Archeologists. Its hallways have been overgrown by tremendous old banyon tree roots. This
temple is my favorite - wild and mystical looking.
The temperature today is about 100 degrees with jungle humidity - rough morning but now
we are taking a lunch break. Nice open air restaurant with an extensive menu. I order a
traditional Cambodian meal and Scooter orders a tuna sandwich making sure it comes from a
can. My noodle lunch comes first along with a delicious banana shake - great lunch.
Scooter's tuna sandwich comes to the table in a bun. Looking inside the sandwich Scooter
finds a 3 inch fish complete with skin, fins and bones soaked in a red sauce along with
five greasy fries. Scooter politely explains to a waitress that speaks no English that
this is a local fish and not canned tuna. Then a gentleman comes out and tells Scooter
that this mystery fish did come out of a can. Finally, Scooter gives in and orders a plate
of noodles.
We enjoyed a little siesta on the side street, watching mopeds loaded with pigs, hay,
chickens and four passengers per moped. Our guide picks us up at 1:30 PM and we head to
Angkor Wat the largest temple in the world. It is unlike the other temples in that it
faces west and was built as a Hindu temple. At the time the ruler of Cambodia was
practicing Hinduism but Cambodia switched back to Buddhism. Angkor Wat symmetrical towers
are on the Cambodian flag. It has been continuously occupied by Buddhist monks and is very
well preserved. It is huge and we spent the next two hours roaming around and climbing to
the top for the view. I think the three of us were close to getting sun stroke so we went
running for a shady tree on the outside of the moat surrounding the Wat. Our guide, Mr.
Lay Kovith is a University Student who loves his tour guide job. Most of the guides here
are licensed by the country and have gone through extensive tourism training.
We took an interesting back trail to the airport through a hill tribe village. Siem
Reap is getting ready to expand as a major tourist destination. It has some excellent
hotels and many more plans for the future. It is quite surprising and refreshing that the
Angkor Temples have not been more commercialized. The only hard currency in Cambodia is
from tourist dollars and we found it very expensive to take taxis - entrance fees to the
temples are $20 US each. We took another flight back to Phnom Penh airport and we were
greeted by one of our moped taxi drivers from the day before. His name is Lorn and he is
very enterprising. He takes us to the Sunshine Hotel which for $25 US is over priced
compared to last nights accommodations but the location is better. We head for the FCC
again for dinner again - why take chances.
At 6:00 AM the furniture we moved in front of the door was still in place. It never
hurts to be cautious - but not paranoid! Our taxi driver, Lorn was waiting for us in the
lobby right on time. Pnom Penh was in full swing at 7:00 AM - thousands of mopeds usually
carrying 2-4 passengers. It is rush hour although it is difficult to say where everyone is
rushing to. Check- in is uneventful yet expensive because the airport departure tax is
another $20 US per person. The trip to Cambodia and the Angkor temples was well worth it
and we wish the people of Cambodia a peaceful future.